Almost every time I’m asked if I like Jakarta, I respond by saying I love it. And almost every time I say that to an Indonesian person, they furrow their brow and ask, “Really? Why?”
I was talking to a friend from Indonesia who questioned why I like Jakarta so much. One of my responses was that it’s so different from what I am used to as a Canadian. To me, so much of Jakarta feels like a step into the past. Vintage magazines, toys, dated packaging, and old hand-painted signs are treated like the standard and not just appreciated for nostalgia. Restaurants, stalls, and wartegs don’t appear to update their signs, menus, interior decor, and facilities which seem to have been intact for decades. I realized as I was saying it that these probably aren’t always contrived aesthetic choices, and more likely choices made out of necessity.
It’s true that I am loving my time in Jakarta. It’s a new way of living for me, and it’s been a very exciting time. But my impression of Jakarta and the reality of life in the city are very different. I will never understand what it’s like to live here the way that other people do. Certain things that interest me, that make Jakarta seem “grittier” or more “authentic” in my subconscious probably aren’t enjoyed as much as novelties by everyone else. So I understand why so many people who have lived here for years, or their whole lives, might be a bit more critical.
Life can be very hard for Indonesians, at any given point in time. But right now especially there is an increasing restlessness. Issues like the rising cost of living and the weakening Rupiah loom over Indonesians constantly, while the government responds with indifference and flippant remarks.
This month, a massive earthquake took close to 100 lives on the island of Flores. At the same time, numerous wildfires are destroying homes and displacing people across the archipelago. Adding to the daily discomforts accompanying life in Indonesia, a thick smoke from the fires is making it unsafe for people to breathe. People in Indonesia are afraid, and they are grieving.
In spite of this, I feel myself surrounded by warmth and laughter from every person I’ve encountered in Indonesia. The people I know who have risked putting themselves in danger attending protests met with militarized and violent police are the same people who have inspired me to prioritize enjoyment and activity in life. When discussing political struggles at CIPS that seem insurmountable, there’s always room in the discussion for making jokes and finding ways to laugh.
I still feel silly having nothing but praise for MY experience in Jakarta, knowing that people living here are increasingly at risk of becoming victims of climate disasters, and are stuck with a government that is unrepresentative of their basic ideals and needs. And I don’t really know what my point is with all of this. I kind of just wanted to examine why, while I know that Jakarta can be a difficult place to live for many, many people, I’m still having so much… FUN. (I haven’t really talked about fun thus far, but I’ll share some photos documenting the fun I have below.) Sometimes when I thought about it, it felt pretty wrong. But being here and witnessing how the people I spend time with and encounter use humour and enjoyment to empower themselves and each other has shown to me that joy reminds people of the things in their life that matter, and what they are fighting for.
And not to imply that ME having fun while being here is empowering anyone in any way. Let’s leave me out of this! I’m just here to learn as much as I can while being here.
