Namaste! As I sit here looking over the rooftops of Patan Dhoka, my neighbourhood, sipping on some black coffee served lovingly by Kamala Didi (big sister), I reflect on how one month has felt both long and short at the same time. But one thing is for certain: I’ve been all over the map – mentally, emotionally, and physically.
I arrived in Kathmandu mid-May after arguably the worst 24 hours of travel I’ve ever experienced (crying children, intense turbulence for hours, my seat neighbour reeking of cigarettes, no gluten-free meals for me even though I had registered my dietary restriction). So needless to say, I was sleep-deprived, nauseous, and starving when I stepped out of the plane. Getting my visa and SIM card thankfully went off without a hitch, and soon I was receiving an extremely warm welcome by the DEPO team – a Nepali Khada scarf was wrapped around my neck and a beautiful handmade bouquet of cloth roses placed in my arms. We hopped into a waiting car – me in the front seat of honour and the rest of the team squished into the backseat – and took off down the chaotic streets of Kathmandu, hot wind whipping through my hair and dust scratching my eyes.
The first week already feels like a bit of a blur in my mind (should I be alarmed since that was only a few weeks ago?). I’m not gonna lie – it was a rough first week. The travel had exhausted me, and then I was faced with navigating the intensity of city life in Lalitpur while extremely jet lagged and overwhelmed. The months ahead of me loomed. My loved ones back home received more than a few anxiety-ridden phone calls!
My big lesson that week was learning to ask for help. I’ve always been used to being hyper-independent and having to figure things out for myself, and my first few days I tried to do just that. I quickly learned that is not the vibe here in Nepal. People want to help. Just say the word and they will do what they can to make your life easier. I thought it was so funny when Jagannath ji, my coworker, said to me after my first week: “Stop being Canadian. You need to become Nepali now. Just ask – Nepali people will help unless they have a very good reason not to.” And Helika ji, my other lovely coworker, said to me recently as I profusely thanked her for helping me find gym clothes: “Stooop, no need to always say thank you!!”
Helika and Jagannath have been my guiding lights during this transition. Their genuine kindness, caring demeanour, and positive attitudes despite the hardships they face on a daily basis is admirable. We’ve spent a great deal of time with one another already – working together in the office, visiting schools for training, and in the evenings and weekends they’ve shown me around the surrounding neighbourhoods. The historic district of Patan is beautiful, with maze-like streets, hidden courtyards, and temples of old tucked away around almost every corner.
After 2 weeks in Nepal, finally accustomed to the time change and getting into a bit of a routine, I found myself back at Tribhuvan Airport boarding a plane to Geneva, Switzerland.
What?! I know, wild.
I was lucky enough to attend the 8th session of the Global Platform for Disaster Risk Reduction (GPDRR) with my amazing supervisor from Japan, Kendra-san. It was a highly inspiring and tiring week! Centered around the theme “Every Day Counts: Act for Resilience Today”, the conference highlighted the urgency with which we must act, but also the importance of localizing disaster risk reduction (DRR) efforts. Time and time again, the panelists in the sessions I attended emphasized that resilience is built from the bottom up; that the key lies in empowering local leaders and centering people – especially those most at risk – in every aspect of DRR planning and action. I felt proud to be helping out at the Plus Arts booth in the Innovation Room, showcasing the localized and contextually based educational DRR games developed at DEPO in Nepal.
The five days at the GPDRR flew by, my notebook filled with ideas, learnings, and contact information of the various fascinating people I got the opportunity to speak with.
It felt so strange being in Europe again (I grew up in Germany). Everything was familiar and nostalgic. The old architecture, the market squares, the trams, the food in the grocery stores – I got so excited seeing snacks I used to eat as a teen. I also got the chance to visit with my Mom, who I hadn’t seen in over five years. As soon as the tearful hello had taken place, it felt like no time had passed. We spent a day and half together sightseeing after the conference, and she accompanied me back to the airport on my final day in Geneva. It was a difficult goodbye, but we promised it won’t be another five years until we see each other again.
Back in Nepal, it was a satisfying moment to confidently breeze through the airport, use the InDrive app to hire a car – politely declining the calling taxi drivers who are known to rip off tourists – and arrive swiftly and safely at my apartment. I crawled into my bed and passed out.
It’s been a week and half since Geneva, and the days have been filled with highs and lows. So many belly laughs with Jagannath (he’s one of the funniest people I’ve ever met), mild food poisoning on my birthday, deep talks and long lunches with Helika, fighting feelings of loneliness, familiarizing myself with my beautiful neighbourhood, and navigating challenges in the workplace.
There are many moments where I feel quite overwhelmed by it all, but they are mixed with feelings of gratitude for being able to take part in this experience, excitement for what the next months hold, and joy about the people I have met and the beautiful places I have already been lucky enough to see.
Here are some impressions from the first month:
Traffic!!
You have to be on high alert walking here because scooters and cars dominate the road, there are often no sidewalks, and drivers are impatient. There is often a cacophony of honking horns, each honk seemingly translating to: “get out of my way!!”
Flora!
Despite the city being very densely populated and there being a lack of open green spaces, I’ve been surprised by the amount of trees growing between buildings, the lush flowering plants and bushes nestled against houses, and the magical rooftop gardens. I love the views from the rooftop patio of my building.
Infrastructure.
Watch where you step! I’ve learned to be very careful where I place my feet (and still, there have been a few times I’ve tripped or slipped and Helika will gently scold me, “Take care please!!”). Many roads and sidewalks boast uneven surfaces, potholes of all sizes, or piles of random construction debris. One thing that has been kind of cool is witnessing the process of a sidewalk being made on a neighbouring street (however, the complete lack of safety equipment/gear is jarring).
Cafés!
There are so many cute hidden places to sit down and have a coffee. Lalitpur is full of cafés that may have a simple exterior, but end up having cozy hidden courtyards or rooftop spaces to escape from the hustle and bustle of the noisy streets. My favourite drink in the evening is hot lemon ginger turmeric with honey. It’s so flavourful and comforting.
So, what are a few of my next steps?
1. Practice Nepali
It’s important to me to make an effort in learning the language while I’m here, and I’ve noticed when I use my (very limited) Nepali while out and about, people’s faces light up. I’m trying to learn one new phrase each day and Didi and Helika have been great teachers! Their laughter and encouragement as I struggle to pronounce new words is the best motivation.
2. Get a gym membership
It’s been challenging meeting new people in the area, so the plan is to join a nearby gym and take part in morning classes before work. Hopefully, I’ll make some social connections while also building some muscle!
3. Buy a helmet
The cheapest and most convenient way to get around is hiring scooters/motorcycles – but it is also the most terrifying. Even Helika and Jagannath said they get scared when on the back of a hired bike! All of the drivers wear helmets and the passengers ride with their fragile heads exposed – it stresses me out, so I’m going to invest in a good helmet for my time here.
Well, that’s it for now – a bit of a scattered first blog, but that’s also how this first month has felt (hence the title). Now I’m truly looking forward to getting in the flow of my new day-to-day routine. Stay tuned for my next blog, where I will hopefully be a fit, Nepali-speaking, helmet-wearing woman!
